One overlooked aspect of sustainable living is the fabrics we use in our homes and what we wear. Many textiles, particularly those derived from synthetic fibres, even recycled plastic ones contribute to environmental degradation, particularly through micro-plastic shedding.
People/ companies claiming that recycled synthetic/ plastic fabrics are sustainable does not make sense in terms of how much water and air pollution they create throughout their use and after their end of life. (It focuses on collecting the water rather than fixing the tap in the first place.)
It is a marketing tactic (Greenwashing) used by companies to sell their products because consumers are getting more aware these days.
In this blog, we’ll explore sustainable fabrics that not only enhance the environment of your home but also mitigate the harmful effects of micro-plastic shedding.
Questions to ask before deciding the sustainability of a fabric.
- Where did they source the material from? – Plant, animal crude oil or recycled?
- Manufacturing process- Natural/chemical processing? – Plant dyes/ chemical dyes? – Chemical processing/ natural processing?
- Quality? – Will it last your lifetime/degrade in a few washes?
- End life of the fabric? – Will it Decomposable or shed microplastics?
| FACTORS | SUSTAINABLE | NON-SUSTAINABLE | |
| 1. | Material Source | Plant, Animal | Crude oil |
| 2. | Manufacturing process | Natural processes | Bleached, chemicals used |
| 3. | Dying | Chemical dye | Plant-based dyes |
| 4. | Quality | Lasts lifetime | degrade in few washes or rough use |
| 5. | End- Life | Decomposable in soil | Shed micro-plastic |
The Problem with Micro-plastic Shedding – Recycled plastic clothes are NOT Sustainable!
Micro-plastic shedding occurs when synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and other plastic-based materials shed tiny plastic particles into the environment during washing and use.
These microplastics find their way into water bodies, soil, and even the air, posing a significant threat to marine life, wildlife, and human health. Moreover, they persist in the environment for hundreds of years, contributing to the global plastic pollution crisis.
As consumers, we can combat this issue by choosing fabrics that are less likely to shed microplastics.
Upcycling Fabrics/ Clothes
Another option considered for sustainable fabrics is to upcycle existing old sarees, fabric waste, etc into slow-fashion high-quality pieces that last longer. Cutting out old denim-worn-out jeans and turning them into reusable waxing strips or a shopping bag. Make sure to use a natural thread to sew it and no synthetic materials used while upcycling.
You may like to read this Article – 10 Free Zero Waste Changes
SUSTAINABLE FABRICS ALTERNATIVES
Plant Fabrics
Wood-based
Tencel (Lyocell)
It is considered a sustainable fabric when derived from wood pulp and processed naturally.
Tencel, a branded form of Lyocell, is a cellulose fiber made from sustainably sourced wood pulp. The production process operates in a closed-loop system, recycling and reusing solvents to minimize waste and pollution. Tencel is soft, breathable, and biodegradable, making it a popular choice for bedding, upholstery, and clothing.
While Eucalyptus, Beech, Birch, and Oak are primary sources for Tencel/Lyocell production, it’s important to note that various other trees and plants can also be used to derive cellulose fibers for this purpose. Additional sources include Pine, Maple, Poplar, etc.
Bamboo
Bamboo fabric, derived from the fast-growing bamboo plant (a type of grass), is biodegradable and renewable. It’s naturally hypoallergenic, moisture-wicking, and breathable, making it ideal for bed sheets, towels, and clothing. Look for bamboo fabrics that are processed using eco-friendly methods to minimize environmental impact.
Viscose (if derived from bamboo)
Modal (if derived from beech trees)
Modal fibre fabric originates from beech tree pulp, specifically derived from the cellulose of beech wood. It represents a type of rayon fabric renowned for its softness, smooth texture, and eco-friendly production process.
Note: Like viscose, modal is at least partly synthetic, and some modal is made using harmful chemical processes and wood from untraceable sources.
Plant- Based Sustainable Fabrics
Hemp
Hemp, a versatile and eco-friendly fabric, requires minimal water and no pesticides to grow. It earns recognition for its durability, breathability, and anti-bacterial properties, making it an excellent choice for various home textiles, including bedding, curtains, and upholstery.
Linen: Flax Plant Fibre
Linen, made from the flax plant, is one of the oldest and most sustainable fabrics in the world. Flax, a plant that requires minimal water and no pesticides to grow, utilizes every part of the plant, leaving little waste. Linen, valued for its durability, natural texture, and ability to regulate temperature, is perfect for bedding, curtains, clothing, and tablecloths.
Cons: You may want to read the label to find out if your linen was produced organically. Linen fibers have virtually no stretch, so they wrinkle easily, and linen can be expensive.
Organic/ Recycled Cotton
Conventional cotton production is notorious for its heavy use of pesticides and water. Organic cotton, on the other hand, is grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, promoting soil health and reducing water consumption. Look for GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified organic cotton products for the highest standards of sustainability.
Jute
The fibres of the Corchorus plants, primarily Corchorus capsularis and Corchorus olitorius, make up jute. These plants, belonging to the family Malvaceae, are native to the Indian subcontinent.
Farmers cultivate jute plants, which are annuals thriving in warm, humid climates, for their fibrous stems. These stems undergo processing to produce jute fibre. Jute, one of the most affordable natural fibres, finds common use across various industries due to its versatility and eco-friendly properties.
Abaca Plant Fiber
Abaca fabric is made from the fibres of the abaca plant, also known as Manila hemp, scientifically called Musa textilis. It’s a strong, durable material primarily grown in the Philippines, known for its versatility and use in products such as ropes, textiles, and speciality papers.
Soybean (Soy Silk)
Soy silk fibre fabric is made from the protein extracted from soybeans. It’s a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to traditional silk, known for its smooth texture and luxurious feel.
Corn (Corn Fiber)
Corn fibre fabric, also known as PLA (polylactic acid) fabric, is derived from corn starch, a renewable resource. It offers a sustainable alternative to traditional petroleum-based fabrics, with applications ranging from clothing to packaging materials.
Coir (Coconut Fiber)
Coir coconut fiber fabric is made from the fibrous husk of coconuts, extracted from the outer shell of mature coconuts. It’s a natural, sustainable material known for its durability and suitability for various applications such as mats, rugs, and erosion control products like coir sheet rolls.
Banana Fiber
Manufacturers make banana fibre fabric from the long fibres extracted from the pseudostems of banana plants, particularly from the species Musa × paradisiacal and Musa × troglodytarum. It’s a renewable, biodegradable material with a range of applications, including textiles, handicrafts, and paper production.
Nettle Fiber
Fabric made from nettle fibre originates from the fibres extracted from the stem of the stinging nettle plant, scientifically known as Urtica dioica. It’s a sustainable and eco-friendly material with a long history of use in textiles, prized for its strength, breathability, and hypoallergenic properties.
Sisal
Manufacturers produce sisal fibre fabric from strong, durable fibres extracted from the leaves of the Agave sisalana plant. It finds common use for ropes, twines, and rugs because of its resilience and resistance to deterioration.
Ramie
People make ramie fibre fabric from the stalks of the Boehmeria nivea plant, commonly known as ramie. It’s a natural, sustainable material known for its strength, lustre, and ability to resist wrinkles and shrinkage.
Cork
People make Cork fabric from the bark of cork oak trees, primarily Quercus suber. It’s a sustainable, renewable material known for its lightweight, water-resistant, and durable properties, commonly used in fashion accessories, upholstery, and home decor.
Algae-based fabrics
Seacell (Seaweed Fiber)
SeaCell, a biodegradable clothing fibre, originates from cellulose or tree fibres and organic seaweed. Athletic apparel brands highly demand the material because it inhibits bacterial growth, offers UV protection, is soft and stretchy, hypoallergenic, and derives from renewable resources.
Kapok fibre (replacement for polyfill)
People make kapok fibre from the silky fibres found in the seed pods of the kapok tree, scientifically known as Ceiba pentandra. It is not a fabric but a replacement for synthetic polyfill. It’s a lightweight, soft material often used in pillows, mattresses, and upholstery due to its natural buoyancy and hypoallergenic properties.
PLANT LEATHERS
Pineapple (Piñatex) Fiber
Apple leather
Mushroom leather (Mylo)
Animal Based Fabrics (Cruelty-Free)
Now, animal fabrics are only cruelty-free as long as the conditions given below are met:
- You own your farm, where you care for animals like sheep, goats, alpacas, etc. You ensure their well-being and personally remove their hair for wool or fabrics, ensuring no cruelty is involved and performing the process at a slow pace.
- Local Small Businesses: You have the option of local small family-run businesses in your hometown i.e, people who keep some animals for wool on their farm, do not use them for meat/ slaughter and take care of them like family, sheep have their names, do not produce in bulk or in a commercialised way (Eg, if you live in areas like Himachal, Ladakh, etc.
- You can visit their farm anytime to make sure it is cruelty-free.
- No animal/ insect is killed or harmed during the whole processing of the fabric making.
Animal-based fabrics are derived from various sources including wool, silk, leather, and fur. Here’s a list of animal-based fabrics that are cruelty-free:
ANIMAL HAIR
Obtained from the fleece of sheep, goats (cashmere and mohair), alpacas, llamas, and other animals. It’s commonly used in clothing and textiles.
Cashmere Goat hair:
Obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. It’s prized for its softness and warmth and is used in high-end clothing and accessories.
Mohair:
Comes from the hair of the Angora goat. It’s known for its luster and is used in clothing and upholstery.
Alpaca Hair:
Obtained from the fleece of the alpaca, a South American camelid. Alpaca fiber is soft, hypoallergenic, and warm, used in clothing and textiles.
Pashmina Goat Hair:
A type of cashmere wool derived from the pashmina goat. It’s used in scarves and shawls.
SILK
Silkworms produce cocoons, which are harvested and processed into fabric by extracting its thread. Silk, known for its luxurious feel, finds use in clothing, bedding, and accessories.
Typically, we kill all the worms while they are still in the cocoon by boiling them, enabling us to obtain a single piece of long thread without cutting it open.
But, we still have the option (ahimsa silk) with some manufacturers where they wait for the butterfly to break through the cocoon and fly away before extracting the silk fibre from the cocoon left behind. The only difference is the thread is shorter and fabric made from it is cheaper.
LEATHER? SUSTAINABLE OR CRUELTY-FREE?
Leather is made from the skins of animals such as cows, sheep, goats, pigs. Leather is used in clothing, footwear, upholstery, and accessories.
In the past, leather was made from animals that died naturally or were eaten by predators like tigers. Their skin was used to make leather, so they weren’t killed specifically for it. But that’s not the case anymore, so leather is NOT cruelty-free! But it is compostable.
Leather is a by-product of dairy products
Today, leather mostly comes as a by-product from cows reproduced in the dairy industry. Vegetarians are mostly responsible for the production of cows as they consume most of the dairy products. Also, farmers have now replaced bullocks with tractors and machines in farming, and they have replaced cow dung compost with chemicals. Consequently, our male calves are no longer used as farm labour, rendering them unemployed.
We end up with more male calves than we know what to do with. Some people abandon them, leaving them to die on roads, a common scene in most parts of India. Others send them to other countries for meat, as India ranks among the top beef-exporting countries. Additionally, the skin of these calves is used to make leather.
Vegetarians turn on the tap
In this analogy, vegetarians inadvertently contribute to the leather industry by supporting the dairy sector, akin to unknowingly “turning on the tap” of leather production.
Non-vegetarians collect the water
On the other hand, non-vegetarians simply “collect the water” in the form of beef, a by-product of the same industry.
Vegans are fixing the tap
Meanwhile, vegans actively “fix the tap” by abstaining from supporting any demand for it, thereby eliminating the supply chain and ensuring that no animals are bred into existence for this purpose.
Semi-Synthetic Fabrics to Avoid (heavy chemical processing)
- Viscose: Manufacturers produce Viscose, also known as rayon, from cellulose fibers derived from wood pulp or bamboo. This process involves chemical processing with caustic soda and carbon disulfide.
- Sorona: Manufacturers create Sorona, a synthetic fiber, from bio-based materials derived from corn through fermentation and polymerization processes.
- Rayon: Producers make Rayon, a semi-synthetic fiber, from regenerated cellulose fibers derived from wood pulp or bamboo. This production undergoes heavy chemical processing.
- PLA (Polylactic Acid): PLA, a bioplastic, originates from renewable resources like corn starch or sugarcane through fermentation and polymerization.
Synthetic Fabrics to Avoid At All Costs (Virgin/ recycled)
- Polyester: One of the most common synthetic fibres, polyester is derived from petroleum, a non-renewable resource. It’s inexpensive and versatile but sheds micro-plastics during washing and use.
- Synthetic Satin: Satin fabric doesn’t originate from a specific type of fiber; instead, it denotes a type of weave that imparts the fabric its smooth and glossy surface. Satin fabric manufacturers can use a variety of fibers, including silk, polyester, acetate, nylon, and rayon. The thread used for it will determine if it is natural or synthetic.
- Acrylic: Acrylic fibers often serve as a wool substitute in blankets, upholstery, and clothing. However, acrylic is a plastic-based material that sheds micro-plastics and has a high environmental impact.
- Recycled Polyester (From PET Bottles): Greenwashing alert! While it may be better than virgin plastic, it sheds micro-plastic and cannot be recycled.again.
- PET (Polyethylene terephthalate): PET is a thermoplastic polymer made from ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, used in fibers, films, and bottles.
- Polyester: Polyester is made from synthetic polymers derived from petrochemicals, primarily ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid.
- Nylon: Nylon is synthesized from petrochemicals, specifically from adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine.
- Acrylic: Acrylic is derived from petrochemicals, primarily acrylonitrile, along with other monomers like methyl acrylate and vinyl acetate.
- Polypropylene: Polypropylene is made from propylene monomers, which are derived from petrochemicals through a polymerization process.
- Spandex (Lycra): Spandex is made from segmented polyurethane, a synthetic polymer derived from petrochemicals.
- PVC (Polyvinyl chloride): PVC is a synthetic plastic polymer made from vinyl chloride monomers, which are produced from petrochemicals.
- Polyethylene: Polyethylene is a thermoplastic polymer made from ethylene monomers, derived from petrochemicals through polymerization.
- Elastane: Elastane, also known as spandex or Lycra, is made from segmented polyurethane, a synthetic polymer derived from petrochemicals.
- Modacrylic: Modacrylic is a synthetic copolymer derived from acrylonitrile and other monomers, primarily produced from petrochemicals.
- Olefin: Olefin fibers, such as polyethylene and polypropylene, are made from petrochemicals through polymerization.
- Terylene: Terylene is a type of polyester made from ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, similar to regular polyester.
- Aramid: Aramid fibers, such as Kevlar and Nomex, are made from aromatic polyamides through complex chemical processes.
- Chlorofibre: Chlorofibre is made from a combination of vinyl chloride and acrylonitrile monomers through polymerization.
- Dynel: Dynel is a synthetic polymer made from acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride monomers.
- Mirhon: Mirhon is a synthetic fiber made from vinyl chloride monomers.
- PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene): PTFE is a synthetic fluoropolymer made from tetrafluoroethylene monomers through polymerization.
- Saran: Saran is made from vinylidene chloride monomers through polymerization.
- Novoloid: Novoloid is made from phenol and formaldehyde through a condensation reaction.
- Vectran: Vectran is a high-performance synthetic fiber made from liquid crystal polymer through a complex spinning process.
- PU (Polyurethane): Polyurethane is made from isocyanates and polyols through a chemical reaction.
- Gore-Tex: Gore-Tex is a synthetic membrane made from expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) with added materials to enhance its performance.
- Microfiber: Microfiber fabrics are made from synthetic polymers such as polyester or nylon, which are finely woven to create ultra-fine fibers.
- Neoprene: Neoprene is made from chloroprene monomers through polymerization, creating a synthetic rubber material.
Conclusion
Choosing organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, linen, and Tencel over synthetic fibres reduces the risk of micro-plastic shedding while promoting sustainable fabrics practices throughout the textile industry.
Let’s make conscious choices in the fabrics we bring into our homes, saying no to micro-plastic sheds and yes to a more sustainable future.
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